FAQ

Waste & Circularity

We do not have a unified standard for textiles to be tested against biodegradability. Those used for textiles are the generic ones used for any kind of materials. However, there is a test for leather, that is ISO 20136:2017, but for textiles in principle, we do not have one. There are many biodegradability tests (aerobic, anaerobic, marine, landfill) by a plethora of testing labs and iso-tests to prove that you have followed the definitions of biodegradability that exist. For more information click here.

A circular economy is a regenerative economy through intentional design and new relationship models. The most important thing about circularity is the combination between having a positive impact and the relationships you build to create this positive impact between humans and nature. Learn more here.

chemicals

Everything around us, including ourselves, are based on chemical substances.The term "chemical" does not basically imply any negative aspect in itself. However, some of them - at certain concentrations - may have a negative impact on health and/or environment ,which can be of different types. They can have physical hazards, health hazards, or environmental hazards. There is no global standard for “hazardous chemicals” which is why it is important to be clear about what type of hazard we are talking about. Learn more here.

This is a complex question, since it is has a double side. This is, the Indigo as dyestuff in its commercial form, or once applied on the warp of the jeans.

There are different commercial forms that Indigo is currently available on: Synthetic powder/granules, Synthetic pre-reduced, natural (from plants like Indigofera Tinctoria).

The main toxicological issue on Synthetic Indigo is related to the presence of aniline in the dye. Aniline is known to produce Methemoglobinemia, this is damaging haemoglobin in blood, leading to cyanosis, as the blood cell loses the capacity of transporting oxygen. Aniline is also considered by EPA as potentially carcinogenic for human, B2 type, while IARC - The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC)- determined that aniline is not yet classifiable as to its carcinogenicity to humans-. In this situation, it is a matter of time and accumulation of evidences on human that this amine is classified as carcinogenic by the Health and Toxicology authorities.

Aniline content on Synthetic Pre-Reduced Indigo is greatly lowered during the preparation of the dye at the chemical mill, while natural Indigo, not based on a reaction involving aniline as precursor, does not have any aniline in the commercial dyestuff.

The presence and concentration of aniline in the final jeans will hence depend on the type of commercial Indigo used, its concentration and the application conditions. There is certainly a possibility that aniline could remain in detectable concentrations on the dyed warp - even after wash down treatments-, if the original dyestuff contains a high concentration of the substance from the synthesis and the concentration used is medium- high (>3 %).

Brands and Certifying Organizations (OeKo-Tex 100 -categories I-IV, GOTS) do not have a common position on acceptable residual aniline on Denim fabrics. They hence range from 10, to 20-50, and 100 ppm. Illogical situation that requires unification of limits based on scientifically supported data.

However, responsible manufacturing companies have managed to reduce the concentration of aniline on the original dyestuff even below the detection limits, on tests requiring reductive extraction of this amine ( ISO 14362-1:2017). These companies produce confirmation letters to mills and brands that aniline on fabric -if the dye is applied according to the recommended conditions- is below the most strict requirements, and even below detection limits, according to the early mentioned Standard test.

So, in conclusion and according to the current knowledge status, Indigo -if coming from a certified origin and used in the recommended conditions, is not toxic on your jeans.

We advise you to approach your favourite brand to ask about this important topic. A proper and scientifically supported feedback is to be expected.

We hope that this information is of help to clarify the current toxicological status of Indigo. Would you like to know anything else about Denim, Jeans, we will be happy to receive your questions.

There are systems that evaluate these ,such as OEKO-TEX, that do so using secure systems to share that info for evaluation only between businesses.

There are specific laboratory tests to calculate a biodegradability of a chemical. A bio-based chemical will not necessarily be biodegradable. For example, bio-based nylon 66 will have the same biodegradability as petroleum based Nylon 66.

While I would not expect seaweed and shells to have much aquatic toxicity (although many plants have some level of toxin to keep from being eaten (e.g. pyrethrins in chrysanthumums) lets assume the material seaweed or shells itself has little or no toxicity - then it is in the same situation as something like raw cotton (which I don’t think is toxic) - it depends on the toxicity of the chemicals used in the dyeing and finishing processes. - Scott Echols